A friend told me on my first day on the island that time does not rule Samoans, Samoans rule time. How true that is, and how wonderful to experience that pace of life which we so crave living in the hustle and bustle of the Western world. Time is but a man-made construct and yet we allow it to govern our entire lives – a sobering thought.
I arrived at night, to a country so isolated, so small, so insignificant in the middle of the vast Pacific Ocean, it conjures images of adventure in the farthest reaches of the planet – a true paradise upon Earth. But having arrived at night to Apia, the small capital of Western Samoa, my first impressions of this place were hidden from view in the deep black night. I later observed that the wild Pacific had been just metres from me that first night and I hadn’t even noticed. So in my first few minutes in Samoa, after leaving the airport and getting on the road, I looked up in the hope it may reveal something about this nation – and I saw it instantly – spectacular! The sky at night and indeed, this inspiring, breath taking and friendly country.
It took me a few moments but when I noticed it I felt a surge of excitement – the milky way in all its awesome glory. At first it just looks like a streak of cloud in the night sky, but then you realise it's not moving like a cloud, and the rest of the sky is crystal clear. It's the faint light coming from distant galaxies on the other side of the milky way. And the stars blinking in the night sky, literally from horizon to horizon. The experience made me not only marvel in the intense beauty of the universe but ponder things far beyond what I think my mind is capable of – life, death, beauty, love – and it all ultimately boils down to one thought: here I am standing on one of the remotest and smallest land masses on our planet looking out at the milky way where Earth itself is but the tiniest speck in a unimaginably vast universe. Truly humbling.
I was here visiting my brother who was in Samoa as part of his university studies. He was in the his penultimate year at medical school in London and was gaining some field experience. Under normal circumstances I can’t imagine I would have ever planned a trip to Samoa. I knew of the country and roughly where it was in the world, but it was so far away, so isolated and underdeveloped as far as tourism goes, that the prospect of going made me giddy with excitement. It’s true what some people say about our generation, those of us that have a true travel bug, always looking for something new – the idea of discovering a paradise few people will ever see is too tempting. My brother’s decision to go halfway across the world became a welcome catalyst for me to follow him.
I checked into a family run motel called Tatiana’s. And over the weeks I got to know the family – a wonderful and warm bunch who looked after me and all their guests
as if were just extensions of their own family. Brenda and her husband Pappa (that’s what everyone called him), their daughter Athene, her 4 month old daughter Ayla and 3-year-old son AJ and her nephew 4-year-old Haarlen. They were close, looked after each other, it was clear to see. Only a family which is strong and comfortable with itself can invite so many to be a part of it. They have become my Samoan family and I love and respect them dearly.
And so began a truly wonderful adventure in one of the most beautiful and untouched parts of the world. I saw migrating humpback whales, breath-taking marine life including octopus, swordfish, starfish, and a wide and colourful array of coral fish. I witnessed some of the most stunning waterfalls I have ever seen and even swam in a freshwater pool as a 20 metre waterfall crashed into me. If you want unadulterated nature, allowed to just be, then Samoa is the place for you. It’s location and low level of development means that nature is the true winner. There’s no pollution, there’s very little deforestation and life in all its magnificence is just allowed to be. I have seen many beaches in my life and bee
n on several ‘tropical’ holidays. Nowhere have I felt so touched by the beauty of the world and indeed the universe, than in Samoa. Sadly many of the beaches on the south coast of the main island of Upolu were devastated by a massive tsunami on September 28, leaving at least 100 people dead. My thoughts are with the wonderful people of Samoa as they mourn their loss. My only condolence will be to remind people of the awesome power of nature – its ability to inspire and destroy all at once.
The independent nation of Samoa (different from neighbouring American Samoa which is a U.S. protectorate) is made up of two main islands – Upolu and Savaii. Upolu is the main island, where the capital Apia is situated and where the majority of the country’s people live. Savaii, while bigger in land mass, is much more under developed. Small villages hug the coastline with a vast interior with lush tropical jungles and mountain ranges. My trip to Savaii was truly breathtaking, beyond a level I witnessed on Upolu. You have to be ready to rough and tough it a little bit on Savaii. You may not always find the kind of accommodation you might be used to, or food to your liking. But that’s not what this place is about. The natural beauty on offer on Savaii is far beyond anything I had ever seen – truly inspiring. The highlights of the island are no doubt the Alofago blowholes and the Afu Aau waterfall. The blowholes are natural rock formations jutting out from the southern coast of the island. Over the years the crashing waves
have created natural holes through the volcanic rock. Because the holes are narrow, when a wave crashes into the rocks the water is pushed with intense pressure through the holes sending a powerful plume of water and steam straight into the sky, sometimes as high as 20-30 metres – a sight to behold. And these blowholes stretch across this part of the coastline, so it looks like the landscape is literally steaming from below, ready to burst at any moment. The Afu Aau waterfall is a 20 metre high waterfall that crashes into a freshwater pool in the middle of the jungle. It was definitely one of the best swims of my life. Being surrounded by such peace and tranquillity while observing the awesomeness of the falling water and jumping off natural rock formations either side of the pool, it was one of the highlights of my trip. It brought out the child in me again, in all of us, setting us free from our busy lives and forcing us right into the moment. You’d be a fool to miss out on the Afu Aau waterfall if you ever find yourself on Savaii.
The western most point
of the island is quite an anomaly. It’s breathtaking with strong Pacific waves crashing into volcanic rock and lush forests just metres inland. But it’s unusual because it is officially the western most point in the whole world. The island sits on the other side of the international dateline, an imaginary line cutting right through the Pacific Ocean. From this point I could see “tomorrow” as it were and the last sunset on the entire planet (of that particular day). Quite an interesting thought when you stop and think about it for a minute.
The rest of the island is spectacular too, and there’s much else to see and do. The south east of the island is great for surfing and diving. And you can swim with turtles too, although the turtles I saw had been enclosed in a reservoir unable to swim freely in the ocean, so I decided against supporting such a venture. But it’s great for kids who would be unable to swim with such magical creatures in the wide ocean.
The main island of Upolu also has stunning beaches, mostly on the southern coastline. These are more developed than the ones on Savaii and you’re more likely to see other tourists and there are generally better facilities. The snorkelling on Lalomanu Beach was the best I have ever seen. I found myself at one point surrounded by 2 schools of fish, both of them at least 500-strong. One was a yellow coral fish and the other a black one. As they huddled underneath me they merged creating a magnificent explosion of yellow and black – truly awesome. On Upolu you should also try to visit the famous Sliding Rocks. These are small freshwater waterfalls which have made the rock smooth over the years – so smooth in fact that you can actually slide down them splashing into the pool below – loads of fun!
As I travelled the length and breadth of Samoa I made some observations about this country. Its people are some of the friendliest I have ever met. Everyone you see, walking on the street, driving through the country, everyone smiles and waves – Talofa (greetings in Samoan) – there is an inherent respect and consideration for other people here. People look out for each other, they talk to each other, without inhibitions. They are a religious and superstitious people and in this lies a paradox. Christianity is a big part of island life, and the only buildings with sound foundations are the many churches and chapels around the country. It seemed strange to me that people live in such makeshift housing, the traditional ‘fale’ which is an open hut with a roof to protect from sun and rain with very little privacy, yet their churches are ornamented, decorated, and immaculately clean. It says a lot about a people I think, when their houses of worship are given so much attention. I also noted that Samoa doesn’t really grow many cash crops. Besides fruit such as mango, papaya and bananas, the country doesn’t seem to produce any vegetables, not even for local consumption let alone export. It seemed odd to me that given the country’s tropical climate and great weather it would not try to grow more food. Almost all food items in the country are imported, making it very expensive to buy something simple like an aubergine or a cucumber. I wondered how Samoans themselves afford such luxuries as a head of broccoli. I suppose they don’t really need to eat broccoli, but they probably grow whatever they need for themselves, in their back gardens.
I could easily go on and on, about my observations, the things I saw and experienced and the people I met. It could fill a book. The memories will stay with me forever. Back in London now and I’m back into my routine, straight back into the rat race. While I was in Samoa I felt so far removed from my life, in both space and time. I was in a very happy bubble that promptly burst the minute I boarded the London underground train. I need time to internalise everything I saw. And I must reflect from time to time on the beauty I witnessed, in people and nature, so that I can live my life the Samoan way – with no stress and no inhibitions.
